The worst of this weather system seems to be behind us. Today we had to duck under our ponchos for a few brief showers, but all things considered, it was a nice walk. The first half was on dirt farm roads that were still pretty soggy. We were then forced on to a small secondary paved road in order to cross a bridge over the Esla River. There was so little traffic that we decided to follow it to Tabara instead of taking the official route through the still-muddy farm lands. The road probably saved us a few kilometers, but even still it was a long day.
Last night we ate in the only bar in Riego del Camino. We had to advise them ahead of time so that they would stay open for us. Turns out we were the only ones eating last night. All the locals know better, I think. The people were nice enough, and they did their best, but they simply weren't cut out to be restauranteurs. They only survive because they are the only show in town. Just about anybody could show them up. Bar Pepe was run by, presumably, Pepe, and his wife and 2 children. The wife clearly gave the orders and did most of the work. They served dinner at 8pm, way early for most spaniards. By 9:15 we began to see signs that they were done with us. First the senora turned off the space heater. At first I thought it was just because she was warm enough. A few minutes later, she started to clear the table, taking the half-full glasses of wine without asking if we were finished. When she rolled everything else on the table up into the paper tablecloth, it was clear th!
e party was over. She looked like she was asleep on her feet. She was a bit cranky, snapping at Pepe and her daughter. I left her a larger than customary tip, primarily because we were relying on her to make us sandwiches for today's walk. At breakfast this morning, if you can call it that, she was back to her cheery self. And the tortilla sandwiches were quite good.
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