April 24, 2007
Today's walk was pleasant but not particularly scenic. We're still in gently rolling fields of crops, but at least we're walking between the fields instead of on the highways. Zamora was visible from a long way off, which made navigating fairly easy. The bar where we ate last night was good enough to store Conchi's leftover pork chop and put it into a tortilla sandwich for my lunch. The nicest part of today's walk was our picnic out in the fields.
The town isn't much to look at from a distance, but is really quite pretty once inside the city walls. There's no refugio or albergue for peregrinos here, so we gladly checked into a hostal with our own bath. And without a doubt the nicest bath we've seen in any or our accommodations. (I just have to take this opportunity to describe the toilet in the parish albergue in El Cubo. The seat was broken in half. Completely broken in half. the back part still lifted up, but the front half was resting on the ground next to the toilet. If you wanted to sit down, you could either balance on the back half of the seat, or try to set the front half on the rim and risk pinching your nether parts.)
We got into Zamora early enough to find a church open where we could obtain a stamp for our credentials. Most of the stamps up to now have been from bars, albergues or hostals, mostly because its nearly impossible to find a church that is open apart from mass time.
The previous two entries were made from the pocketmail device. It worked flawlessly and several times in a row from the phone booth in El Cubo, but today it has failed to connect from at least 5 different phones. So I found Internet access in an arcade parlour.
I've walked over 500 kilometers on this trip and I don't think I've lost an ounce. Short of wiring one's mouth shut, I don't think it is possible to loose weight in Spain. I know I'm burning more calories, but I'm taking in way too many empty calories with the additional beer and wine that is ever present in the menus.
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