What a difference from yesterday. There were times yesterday when Conch was complaining about the heat. The locals even commented on how warm it was. Last night we walked back to our hostal after 11pm without coats.
About 4am I heard rain on the window. It was still raining when we got up at 7:30. In the past stalling over breakfast served us well, so we headed out for churros and a visit to the tourist office, pretty much stalling until checkout time. All for naught. The actual distance today was 19 km, but the first 5 was on the shoulder of the main north-south highway. It would have been bad enough on a nice day, but it would have been perilous in today's wind and rain. We took a bus the first 5 miles to the point where the trail left the highway.
For the next 2 hours we saw nothing taller than knee-high wheat. No trees or buidings. No escape from the rain, or even a mud-free place to take off our packs. At the entrance to the pueblo there was a Bar-Restaurante with rooms upstairs. The parking lot was full of long haul trucks, always a good endorsement for a restaurant. Since it had been too wet to stop and eat the sandwiches we packed, we went in to eat. Although the albergue was reported to be nice, we decided to get a room here instead. We felt like we'd earned a bit of pampering. With the weather the way it was, we didn't want to be cooped up in a dorm with a bunch of other wet pilgrims. Both lunch and the room exceeded our expectations, and at a very fair price.
It looks like more of the same tomorrow.
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