21km Ourense to Cea

May 10, 2007

Today at our lunch stop we passed the 900km mark. We're down to double-digits and counting.

I had originally planned to walk 31km to the Cistercian monastery at Osiera which has lodging. I constructed that itinerary several weeks ago when we were walking through the relative flat lands of Badajoz and Caceres. The climb out of Ourense today was far more strenous than I'd imagined. It ranged from steep to stair-like. There is a nice albergue here in Cea and we can re-arrange the next few days to accommodate the shortfall. We'll probably arrange to visit the monastery at lunch time tomorrow. It sounds like quite a monument. This probably works out better. Had we pushed on, we would have arrived late and exhausted, without time to look around.

Ourense was a nice town. I was sorry to have to leave after such a short visit. The route into Ourense was through an industrial area, but the walk out was through small business and residential areas with lots of bars and shops. We were barely out of the city center when we started seeing vegetable gardens again. The percentage of homes with gardens the past several days has been astounding, and all very well kept.

25km Vilar de Barrio to Ourense (kind of)

May 9, 2007

 

Dean and Marian caught the early bus out of town this morning with the intention of spending the day in Santiago de Compostela before heading to Madrid and home tomorrow. We had a lot of fun while they were here and will miss them. The rain-hail shower that greeted them on their arrival was essentially all the rain they saw.  How lucky is that? I'll post some of Dean's photos on the site when we get back to Portland.

 

We intended to go only 15km, as far as Xunqueira de Ambia, but we got there about noon and decided to push on to Ourense.  We planned to walk as far as the industrial suburbs and then catch a bus to the city center.  We were about 10km from there when Conchi cut her finger and kind of fainted at the site of blood. Fortunately, we were within a few blocks of a bar in Pinela, so I carried the packs there and called a cab, then went back for her.  She felt better after a soft drink and a sit in the shade.

 

Now we're in Ourense, a town of about 90,000. Feels huge after the pueblos we've been in for the past few weeks.  Another nice albergue here and last night in Laza as well.  But we got in late and we've got a lot to do before the 10pm lockdown. That is new to us.  We usually get a key, but here they just close the gate at 10 and if you're not inside, tough.

20km Laza to Vilar del Barrios

March 8, 2007

 

Today was the big test for Dean & Marian, and their last day of walking as well.  We started climbing shortly after setting out. The countryside was beautiful, but the climb was relentless. The views from on top made it worth it. We stopped at the top for a picnic lunch and glass (or 2) of wine before continuing.

 

Just past the summit was the town of Albergueria, which contrary to what the name suggests, does not have an albergue.  It does have a very cool bar, though, called Rincon del Peregrino with shells hanging from the walls and ceiling with the names of visiting pilgrims. Ours is now officially attached to the ceiling.

 

Since entering Galicia, the towns have been closer together.  Nearly every town has a fountain with fresh water, which is a huge relief on these warm days. Funny that we went from the threat of snow to sweaty-hot within one week.

14km Campobecerros to Laza

May 7, 2007

 

Another great walk through the mountains.  It is amazing how similar the terrain and vegetation is to the foothills of the Cscades.

 

Since entering Galicia, the albergues have improved dramatically.  It is a pleasure to stay in them.  As I look at the map, we'll have albergues like this for most of the rest of the walk, which isn't much longer now.  We're down to single digits in the number of days left.  I'm guessing around 8 days to Santiago, then another 4 if we continue to Finesterre on the coast.

 

Dean and Marian walk with us tomorrow, then begin their return. Since they won't be walking with us to Santiago, they are going to skip ahead on a bus and spend a night in Santiago, then fly back to the states on Friday.  Its been a lot of fun having them along and a shame that their visit didn't coincide with our arrival in Santiago.  Next time.

 

 

20km A Gudina to Campobecerros

May 6, 2007

 

We're back in the mountains.  A bit of climb for the first few hours, then a long walk along a ridgetop at about 1000 meters.  Great walking weather and great scenery.  We ended up at a town without an albergue, so we stayed in the only hostal in town.  We were fortunate to get the last 2 rooms available.  They made dinner for us, a plate of different boiled meats with garbanzos, boiled cabbage and potato.  Just before dinner, a group marched into town led by 2 bagpipes and 2 drummers.  Just some people out on a Sunday afternoon dancing and having some fun. It is surprising how similar this terrain is to Oregon.  Green and mountainous.

12km Vilavella to A Gudina

May 5, 2007

Yesterday's cab ride made for a short day today. There really wasn't any way to continue on from here without making this a 35 km day. Just as well, as the walking in these mountains is more demanding.

We've crossed out of Castille-Leon and into Galicia, the last of the autonomous regions we'll visit. At the same time we left the province of Zamora and entered the province of Ourense. Most everything is written in gallego as well as spanish. It looks a lot like portuguese, which isn't surprising considering we are only about 20km from the Portuguese border.

Galicia is known for its high quality albergues, and tonight's stop reinforces that reputation. Everybody was happy to stay here. No rebellions.

21km Requejo to Lubian

The weather cleared, we crossed the pass without trouble, and arrived at Lubian just as the first drops of the afternoon showers fell. All in all, a very nice walk.

The albergue was essentially like the previous night, but a bit smaller. The beds had pillows and a blanket and there was a small kitchen. Unfortunately, I was the only one willing to stay there. The alternatives were either full or overpriced. Before I knew it, the crew mutinied and we were in a cab to a town 10km away where there as another hotel. This was a nearly intollerable concession for me to make, as it moved us from the category of peregrino to "taxi tourist", an unpardonable offense in the eyes of the pilgrim purist. Not that I'm a purist, but I like to play by the rules if at all possible.